Rome One and Two and Homeward

If there were any birds in Malta...we would have been up with them this morning. Taxi at 6am and easy progress through the Malta Airport. Arrive Rome 9.40 and eventually mosey on to the express train, another taxi and at modern, funky hotel by 1pm.  Need to wait to check in so decide to find lunch.   Found a local market tucked away in a side street. As we were approaching a square, an enterprising young guy from Bangladesh managed to persuade us to buy a ticket on a HOHO bus, escorted us to an ATM so that we could pay cash, warned us to protect our bags against pick-pockets and then escorted us to to a really good local restaurant where we had a yummy lunch.

Our plan was to visit the Colosseum today and then some other sights tomorrow. The monument was not crowded at all, so armed with an audio guide, we wandered. There is a lot of restoration.  Far more than when Lorri and I visited in 1973.   I also remember that we risked life and limb to cross the road to reach the edifice, whereas now there is a vast pedestrian precinct around it.  It was an interesting visit, although Tony and I have both seen impressive Roman structures elsewhere. We stayed until the announcement to leave. It was then a long ride on the HOHO, nearly back to our original bus stop.  As it was the last circuit, we were dropped off a little further on from our hotel. We knew the way and started to walk, deciding that it was time for a drink.  Nice bar with decent wine and they served meals.  Wow! What meals! I had the most delicious artichoke followed by equally delicious mozzarella stuffed zucchini flowers. I knew that they were in season because I had seen them at the market this morning.   A pleasant walk to the hotel where we finally checked in and received an upgrade to a larger room with a balcony. Ta!

Rome is looking a little shoddy. It can match Bucharest with uneven pavement and loose tiles in the footpaths, let alone the ankle threatening square cobblestones.   The place could do with a good spruce-up. Where are all those tourist dollars going??

Rome Two.   Hmm...time ran out so this is Day Two as well.   Another cool but sunny day in Roma. A lazy rise to a great breakfast in this VERY  impressive modern hotel. The managers seem to be trying to combine the ambiance of a friendly youth hostel with excellent hotel facilities.

Caught the HOHO to downtown.  Tony had two aims and I had one. With Tony's ankle not happy, we were going to be content with our three sites. As it happens, most of the popular must-dos are in comfortable walking distance. We just took our time.   It was perfect weather for dawdling, reading the explanation signs and diverting off our path occasionally. A visit to an operating subterranean aqueduct near the Trevi Fountain was a bonus. We ticked off the fountain. Same for Trojan's Column...we had seen the replica in Bucharest as it depicts the campaign that subjugated the peoples in what we now know as Romania.  Then The Pantheon. Lorraine and I had peeked through the huge closed doors years ago and wondered about the hole in the roof! Now I was able to go inside...and it was free!!

A pleasant evening meal and time to pack for our homeward journey.  Our House Sitter has indicated that our tank water has a smokey flavour.  Many people during our trip have said that they have     been/are/will pray for Australia.  The situation in Oz has never been far from our thoughts. A holiday of mixed emotions.        Cheers    Karyn x

A recognisable icon.

Delicious artichoke entree.

The thing to do at the Trevi Fountain was to eat ice-cream.

That hole. The rain flows into 18 small holes in the marble floor.

One of many people trying to earn some money by working on the streets. 

Just a scene that I liked. 

Trojan or Trajan's massive victory column. 

While excavating for  a new cinema they discovered an ancient aqueduct. Most inconvenient. 

Impressive as you emerge from a small side street.

Liked by lots. 

Malta 5th Report. Valletta

Light steady rain today.  We knew that this was coming so today was going to be a museum day. The 5 minute ferry to Valletta was not running due to the weather so we caught the 10 mins bus journey instead.   The rain was easing when we reached the capital and lucky for us, that was the end of the rain!   Walked to the part of the fortifications that were the major administration area during WWII.  Both Tony and I had learned sometime during our lives that Malta had suffered badly during the War and had been recognised for their valour by being awarded the George Cross from Britain. Today we could put all of that into perspective. We stumbled upon the 12 Noon cannon salute at Battery Point. Originally, it helped ship's captains to re-establish their bearings, literally, as they had either travelled 5 days from Gibraltar or 8 days from parts of the Middle East. Now it is a tourist attraction.

During a pleasant light lunch we watched as security precautions were put in place, in preparation for the inauguration of the new Maltese Prime Minister, replacing the one who had recently resigned as one of his advisers was implicated in the assassination of a journalist!

Most of the afternoon was spent in the Lascaris War Rooms, 40 metres under the defence walls and the Hub of WWII planning re the re-taking of Sicily and repelling of the Germans.   We also learned of the 2 years of bombardment of this island.  Thank goodness for the defences put in place by The Knights in the 1500's as they provided refuge for the hapless citizens in the 1900's.  With Malta left in a desolate state, we can totally understand why many of them decided to try for a new life in Oz.

On that note, we have had many a conversation about "my cousin/uncle in Australia" and the acknowledgement that maybe more Maltese live in Oz than in Malta.

I made a quick visit to the main Art Gallery while Tony wandered elsewhere.    A last drink and light meal in Sliema before our departure from this interesting tiny country. Early rise tomorrow and two nights in Rome.

Apparently the thought of  gun fire is a major attraction. 

After much ceremonial preparation...bang!!

Loved the modern goods in the ancient vaulted recess. 

View to the entrance to the Grand Harbour. 

In the bowels of the fortifications. 

Chilling reality of war engagement. 

Big map and men leaning over with long pointers and moving the markers.In my imagination at least.  

The Knights came from 8 major provinces/kingdoms of the time.  Hence the 8 pointed Maltese Cross. The grand home of the Italian-based Knights is now the principal art gallery. 

Our favourite watering hole.    

Malta 4th Report Port Marsaxlokk

Yesterday we chose to explore the other side of this small peninsula at St Julian. It was a short walk to the other seaside promenade. More holiday apartments and an unusual water's edge! A rocky plateau leads to the sea. Small pools have been cut into the rock to allow for safer access to the water.

Today we caught the bus to Port Marsaxlokk, in the south of the island,  where the entire waterfront becomes a weekly Sunday market. The large fishing fleet was in the harbour as the weather was not conducive to fishing.  The many fresh fish stalls were popular and we were fascinated at the adeptness of the women fishmongers.  Maltese cakes and biscuits were also featured. A bit heavy for my liking.  Tony chose prawns for lunch as we dodged a shower under the large market umbrellas.

Returning to Valletta, we entered this fortified capital through the town's main gate. The size of the fortifications are quite staggering. We plan to return here tomorrow, our last day, to visit more of the historical sites.  Caught the ferry back to Sliema...much quicker than taking the bus.

Don't be daydreaming when you walk past these window shutter hooks!

Balancing the coffee/aperatif ratio, Jo.

Determine efforts to cool-off in the sea.

Make sure that your beach mat is padded and forget bringing the bucket and spade.

Diddems!

Still find the streetscapes appealing.

Very large cannoli at the Sunday market.

Part of the fishing fleet. 

Tony needed some questions answered. 

A small section of the large fortifications at Valletta. 

An old neighbourhood.

Malta 3rd Mdina

A light lunch with a male gathering at Rabat.

Whoa!   History overload today.     ( and photos decided to misbehave!!)

Another blue sky day, at least until mid-afternoon.  We caught the local bus to Mdina, former capital and inland fortified town.  There was significant small- plot agriculture around this honey-hued hill-top town. Within the walls we walked down empty streets. Off-season is great. Decided to watch both the History of the Knights ( of St John)and the Mdina Experience.    The former was actually a series of graphic life-sized dioramas documenting the rise of the Knights from the Crusades 'till their demise after surrendering to Napoleon. Although the British helped expel the French after only 2 years, The Brits then dispersed the Order.

The Mdina Experience was a 3D movie on the various powers that wanted and occupied this strategic island entity in the middle of the Mediterranean.   Stone temples were built prior to 2500BC and ruins  exist today.  Thence followed...the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, the Romans for 600 years, Byzantines and other Arab forces until the 11th century when the Normans arrived. The Spanish from Aragon were next before the island was given to the homeless Knights in the 1500's. Three hundred years later, the capitulation to the French marked the beginning of 200 years of English rule until Independence in 1964.    No wonder there is a melange of different cultures evidenced throughout the island/s.

After wandering the city we sought out food in the neighbouring Rabat, also with an attractive streetscape. For under 3 euros we enjoyed 3 pastizzis, one with ricotta and two with yummy peas, and two glasses of sweet milky tea. The cafe was frequented by the locals and I tried to be sneaky and take a photo. It was a long but interesting return bus ride. We had taken the express in the morning but this one was the milk run. Fantastic to note the  extensive remains of a Roman aqueduct that runs along the front of many everyday residences. A drink in our favourite bar, The Hole in the Wall, before pasta at the unit.

Near our apt.

No safety on the street as one eyes off the concrete blocks being hoisted between the power cables!!

Maltese take-away.

Learning about the 300 year reign of The Grand Masters. 

Mdina, started by the Romans and altered many times since. 

Cooking pasta.

Main square of the inner city, Mdina.

Malta 2nd Report. Boat Trip

After 2 days, my impressions of Malta are...

Limestone. Everything is built of limestone. The off season is the time to destroy, build or renovate so there is a bit of dust about.  Having said that, EVERYWHERE we have been is immaculately clean. No rubbish and roads seem to be swept within an inch of their lives. Haven't been up late enough to see what happens but there must be night time worker activity.

The old is struggling to stave off the new. In the residential streets renovations appear to be in sympathy with the cultural building heritage, but the commercial sector definitely prefers glitz and glass.  We love the residential streets.

The coastal towns are densely populated.   High-rise apartments must house multiple thousands of holiday makers in summer.  I do not know where they cool down in the heat because there are minimal sandy pockets. I use "pockets" deliberately. Any trees have been planted.  Flat-leaved cactus proliferates.  One needs to remove the rocks before any agriculture can succeed.    The minimal space  in built-up areas is contrasted with the vastness of the surrounding deep sea.  Horizon views no matter which direction you look.

We are amused at the familiar Maltese names.   The Latrobe Valley is a little Malta.   Mizzi, Borg. Attard, Spitteri, Buhagier, Fenech, Xuereb, Galea.   The small islands ( Malta and Gozo) pack an extensive history. We will explore more of that later.

Faith is important. Two cathedrals, over 300 churches, images outside many homes, small shrines and statues on street corners led to this conclusion. Legend has it that Paul ( later St Paul) was shipwrecked for 3 months here on his way to be tried by Julius Caesar in Rome. In that time he converted the inhabitants to Christianity. The Maltese language is Arabic based. English is spoken by everyone. The country has been influenced by many.


Today we joined the tourist trend and took an all day trip, partly by boat. It was beautiful blue-sky day.  The 2nd largest island Gozo, is 1 1/2 hrs from the main island.   I coped well!!!   A bus trip took us through the island to The Blue Grotto.  How many Blue Grottos are there in the world?  It was a fun short trip from a tiny cove created by a break in the soaring limestone cliffs, to the calm ocean outside. Would be a huge boat-jam during the high season.   After lunch and a wander in the main city, Victoria, we rejoined the boat to sail to the tinier Comino Island and the Blue Lagoon!!!!

Return trip to Sliema saw me very glad to get off the slightly rocky boat.

Apparently there was a photo opportunity. 

Emerging from the tiny cove.

After the ride and on the edge of the cove.

Typical terrain...harsh earth, faith and the sea. 

And he chats to a motorcycle cop in every country too. 

Street art Maltese style.   Saw similar art in Ireland. 

View from Comino towards Gozo.

I was THRILLED to stalk this evidence of wild life.

Entering our apt after purchasing more supplies. 

Malta 1st Report

A 1hr flight to London, 2 1/2 hr wait and then a 2 hr 45 mins flight to Valletta in Malta saw us arrive about 4.30pm local time.   Immediate difference was that it was still daylight.

Taxi to our airbnb apt. We are spending the week in a modern ground floor stand-alone sort-of unit. It is in a quiet, narrow residential street, that we now know is most characteristic of this country.  Needed supplies and consulted Google for the nearest supermarket. A stone's throw away. On the way there was small bar called The Hole In The Wall.   Perfect for a Maltese introduction. This neighbourhood of Sliema is across a small bay from the original old town of Valletta.  I immediately loved the local area, away from the bustle but minutes away from facilities.

A simple home-cooked meal the night before, washing now hanging on the clothes horse, suitcases emptied of this weeks clothes and we were ready to explore.
The islands of Malta are hilly. As we were UP the best thing to do was to go DOWN to find the centre of things. Through a pedestrian Mall that appeared to cater for holidaying visitors and we reached the shore. Old Valletta is just there, across the estuary or creek as they call them here. The unique architectural feature is the balcony that everyone seems to have. Protruding from the main facade, a bus driver told us later that an original decree had stipulated that all balconies had to be different, not the same as your neighbours. Now, safety regulations dictate that they are all the same. Typical.

A cool breeze kept the temperature low as we wandered. We had coffee in the tiniest cafe and a yummy fresh baguette in an equally tiny sandwich bar. Our lunchtime hot chocolate had the consistency of a well-melted block of chocolate. Like runny cream.

With Tony's knee not really happy with long walks, we booked a day tour for tomorrow. For the afternoon, the quick ferry trip across to Valletta beckoned. The tout who hassled for an introductory tour of the town by an open electric mini-bus, got 3 takers, including us.  More steeps hills here. San Francisco but the roads are narrower.  After a visit to the prominent cathedral with its array of crystal chandeliers, we ventured to the Grand Palace and The Armoury.  Those Knights of St John certainly could put some glamorous rooms together to impress any visiting dignitary. Powerful for 500 years, repelling the Ottomans determinedly, they were eventually dispersed...by the British.
Back to Sliema, an aperitif and another simple but tasty home-cooked meal in our warm, roomy, quiet abode.

Pressed for room.

Traditional buildings, ubiquitous cabling and the inescapable car.

Juggling for space. How long will the small enterprise hold out?

Modern Malta near Sliema.

Historic Valletta. 

Happy for the mini-bus to negotiate the hills. 

Balcony in the Grand Palace. 

Glad that I was not involved in a battle.