Travelling Home

Pushed open the heavy wooden doors to yet another blue sky day. This keeps up the weather's impeccable record. We tidied up the apt and waited for Emiliano to pick us up and take us to the bus station in lower Colle. Goodbye to our medieval surroundings and a gradual return to reality.

Bus to Siena and that descent to the station. We counted EIGHT escalators! Eight! A near-empty train to Florence and then a one hour wait for our train to Milan. Reached Milan at 4.50pm. The train system is very efficient, trains are clean and so are the stations. Multitudes of people use the system. Both Florence and Milan stations are abuzz with travellers.

We returned to our first Milan hotel and they had upgraded our room as we were repeat customers. Multi grazi senore! Wine and lasagne for our dinner in a pleasant ristorante in the same street as the hotel.

Our plane leaves at 10.20pm tomorrow. Before then we plan to visit Milan's GRAND cathedral, walk to the famous opera house, La Scala and possibly make our way to a canal precinct.

Thanks heaps Lana for including me in your Tuscany plans. Stories to share forever. xx

...and I forgot to say. Thanks to all of you who have added comments to the Blog. It is comforting to know that we can travel together.

...and, despite being Richmond supporters, we were thrilled that The Bulldogs won the grand final. We held off checking the score until we knew the game must be over. Even then we wanted three verifications before we believed it. I cannot imagine the party that was happening in Melbourne Saturday night.

Another train journey.

Waiting at Florence.

Nothing like a rubber duck in your basin to make you laugh. And that is the whole idea!

How cute.

 

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Fabulous Food

Major plan for the day was to have lunch here in Old Colle at a restaurant highly recommended by our host, Emiliano.

In the morning Lana walked to lower Colle to do some final shopping, only to find that the weekly market was in full swing. Lots of people in town so not as easy to peruse the shops calmly.

I spent part of the morning wandering Old Colle and some of its outside precincts. Some major construction works going on on the hill, including the building of a new school.

At 1pm we joined 4 other couples at this smart restaurant. Each dish was a work of art, service impeccable but relaxed and we met the owner and the chef. A pleasant way to spend a couple of hours.

Another stroll around the town before returning to the apt to start preparing for tomorrow's departure. At 6.30 we ventured out for a drink and a light meal. Not much new in Old Colle so decided to go down to lower Colle. Although people were gathered in the piazza for a social chat, there was not much happening in the bars. After a bit more of a wander we found a more lively establishment to have our first drink. Then back to the main piazza where one of the bars was open for Happy Hour where they serve many wholesome snacks, complementary, with the drinks. Decided that would do us for our meal! We also concluded that if you are trying to give up smoking, don't come to Italy. Smoke wafts in the air frequently. People watching and one drink later, time to walk to the lift. Balmy evening as we walked through the medieval streets of Old Colle. It has been such an atmospheric and convenient place to spend our week.

Think a girl toddler lives here!!

Meeting at the piazza for a chat.

One of our lunch courses.

A view from lower Colle looking towards the lift on the hill.

 

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Tantalising Truffles

Wow! What a day we have had! I have mentioned that Lana had planned this trip and had done some research. One of her finds was a tour conducted about 50 kms from here, involving Truffles.

We had arranged for a taxi to drive us to San Miniato, as the public transport to there was laborious. David the driver picked us up at 9.30 and we spent the next hour driving the slowest 50 kms I have ever experienced. There is not a freeway in the valley that we were in and once you get behind a truck that is it...there for the duration. No passing opportunities. However, drivers are patient and we were only a few minutes late for our 10.30 tour.

Massimo met us at his home. We then met his Father, Salvitore, who was going to be in charge of the truffle-hunting dog, Stella. In two cars we drove to the nearby San Miniato Hills, one of two places in Italy where the prized white truffle grows. Black truffle grows here all year, is cheaper and has a milder aroma and smell. White truffle season is from now until end of November. Much more expensive with a stronger aroma. Don't ask us to describe the smell. We can't. Suffice to say it is distinctive, perhaps a little sharp, perhaps a little peppery hmmm...not doing it justice.

Within 10 minutes of being in the forest, Stella is madly scratching at the soil. Voila! One white truffle. We wandered slowly around the forest and in just over an hour we had two white and two black truffles. It was exciting to watch the dog nose into the soil excitedly and then to watch Salvitore carefully dig with his special tool to see whether there was indeed a truffle...Stella was right each time.

We then drove to the home of the family's grandparents where Massimo's sister Leititia greeted us. She was going to prepare our lunch. We stayed in the kitchen as she prepared chick-pea soup with shaved black truffle garnish. Home-made pasta with white truffle and hazelnut sauce followed. As Leititia left to fetch her daughter from kinder, non- English speaking Salvitore prepared eggs in a small clay pot that was lightly cooked in the oven and garnished with white truffle. Eaten with bread slices or a wooden fork ( cause a metal fork would tarnish the flavour!) it was simply delicious. All of this was accompanied by white wines of the region. To finish, Leititia had made white chocolate and truffle , eaten with a walnut liquor made by her Father. We dined on their terrace, in a pleasant suburban setting.

Another sunny day, convenient taxi for transport and a family passionate about their traditional enterprise. The tradition is what they emphasise and work to protect. According to Massimo, truffle hunting is like fishing, you do it to relax and escape from every day realities. Wandering through the green forest is calming. Both he and his sister have other jobs. They are in collaboration with their Father to keep the highly prized truffle a respected product worldwide. All most very interesting.

Back to Colle, a quiet drink at the local bar, a small dinner and then our second last night in our apartment.

That pesty truck.

Salvitore checking the area before Massimo allows Stella to keep digging.

A very nice sized black truffle.

 

Salvitore finishing off the eggs with the white truffle. Others are on the plate.

 

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A Saunter in Siena

Push open the double wooden doors of our apartment to yet...another blue-sky sunny day. Today we had decided to catch the local bus to Siena, 1/2 hr away. It is an easy half hour passing mostly through green countryside.

We knew that there was a well preserved Renaissance city centre and two dominant towers. Upon arrival we headed for the tower on the skyline. As we noted when we first arrived at the station 5 days ago, Siena is hilly. The old centre of the town has many semi-circular streets criss-crossed by steep alleyways. Before we came to the civic plaza I had bought a pair of shoes! The civic plaza is a huge paved shallow bowl-shaped space. After a quick look we then walked in the general direction of the Duamo/Cathedral. Time for coffee and cake. Annie, my accent must have been bizarre when I asked for a macchiato so we ended up with "an American coffee" with a small quantity of milk. It was OK.

Bought the ticket and joined the crowd for the Cathedral. The marble floor was a highlight of this edifice. Besides the beautiful geometric patterns, there were many large pictures etched into the huge floor space. Obviously the crowd was a little exuberant as a message came over the loud speaker..."Attention. Attention. Silenzio."

We then wandered back to the first plaza and decided to climb its tower. Tony rang on Lana's mobile just as we bought the tickets. Hope you have all coped with the looming storm!!! Obviously the tower was a lot of UP. A variety of steep narrow steps and many squashes against the tiny landings to let others descend. The view from the top certainly gave you a great perspective as to how Siena fits into the landscape. Although it it the usual mass of apartment complexes in every space available, it is actually quite green and the lovely Tuscan countryside is within easy access.

After a pizza and wine late lunch, it was back on the bus to Colle. We whiled away a bit of time just people watching in the calm Colle piazza and then, you guessed it, the tunnel and the lift. We bought a selection of delectable pastries from the trendy pasticceria here in Old Colle and then happily retired to the apt. There is wine in the fridge and chicken/veggies to cook. All is good.

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The bowl shaped plaza and the tower that we later climbed. You can just see Lana on the left, in shorts.

Marble on the floor of the Cathedral. The son of Remus supposedly founded the city.

View of the Cathedral from the tower.

Motorbike sales MUST be healthy, surely!

 

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Wonderful Wine. Montalcino

Lana had wanted to visit this area as it had featured in the film "Letters to Juliet." She had researched wine tours and chosen this one...great choice Lansy! The lovely Marielouisa picked us up outside the wall of Old Colle and we joined the other 6 members of the tour. Montalcino is about 1 1/2 hrs from Colle. For those in the know, it is the region that produces the brunello red wine, a wine that we were not familiar with but now...just ask us any question!!!

We visited two wineries. The first was a small family winery, as are a large percentage of vineyards in this area. They make a comfortable living from 10 000 bottles of wine per year. The second, still family owned, a bit like Brown Bros, producing 200 000 bottles per year. Our guide and the two presenters at the wineries were all women. The three were passionate about their industry and VERY knowledgeable. We are so lucky to be here during harvest. At the second winery we witnessed the grapes being delivered, sorted, put into a vat and saw a vat of fermenting rich red grapes.

Between the visits we had a scrumptious lunch at a small hilltop town, family run restaurant. Eight small platters of different dishes were put on the table and we ate heartily. THEN they brought out two pasta dishes, one meat and the other tomato. Coupled with the wine we were all well fed. Marielouisa then drove to an artisan meat producer. As we did not have dessert at the restaurant, the Mamma at this enterprise prepared three traditional sweet snacks for us to try while Marielouisa collected a meat order to take to a restaurant. Super full! Of course the second winery was next and the sample sizes for the wine tasting were most generous. They had deduced that I was not a red wine fan so a white wine was part of the tasting. The other group members thoroughly enjoyed their quality brunello samples as well as the winery's own olive oil and bread.

With a few purchases to transact, including Lana, we finally left this beautiful area about 5.30pm. Such an interesting day with a group of friendly people. No dinner for Lana and I tonight. A large cup of tea and a chocolate did us fine!

Another Tuscan vista.

Enjoying our first tasting...generous tasting quantities!

Lunch, first course. Such fresh produce. perfecto!

Lana with Marielouisa.

 

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San Gimignano

Before relating today's outing I will finish off the festival. We did return to the main town but found proceedings a little flat. As we had walked through Old Colle we had noticed a gathering of folk...so decided to return. It was definitely the place to be. A communal barbecue was in full swing at the main piazza, with an eager crowd waiting in line for their share. Soon a 10 piece band with 3 female singers began to play an hour long bracket. We perched ourselves on two outside bar stools wth our wine and were most entertained. A fun night with the locals.

San Gimignano. This town is mentioned in EVERY account of what to see in Tuscany. This would usually put me off immediately, but as the town was only 1/2 hr by local bus from where we are staying...silly not to do it. The bus deposits you outside the city walls. The immediate views were straight from the brochures...ridiculously beautiful. Lana and I agree that if they simply had the views and a restaurant to enjoy them from, that would be worth the visit alone.

However we did venture inside the walls to the medieval town. I immediately thought of Mont St Michel with slightly wider streets. The location and colour of the stonework reminiscent of Gordes, France. Lana had expected a castle only, so this complete town was a pleasant surprise to her. Great shopping! We decided to forgo the three Museums of Torture, but did visit the main church with its extensive and well preserved frescoes. We found the depictions of life in pergatory for sinners, just a little too well preserved!!

So we wandered, shopped, ate, drank and had a thoroughly pleasant day. Returning to lower Colle we visited the supermarket and then headed to the tunnel and the lift. Lana assembled a great platter of goodies that we had bought at the market yesterday. A quiet night in.

We were there!

 

 

Our dinner.

 

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I Want To Ride My Bicycle

When organising this trip I expressed a desire to do a bike ride. We read that our BnB had bikes available so we forwent an organised ride to do our own. Today was the day. Sunny and warm. Bikes were in major need of maintenance and Lana was a little uneasy. Rusty chains, weak brakes and the back wheel of my bike rubbed the frame, but hey! Why put a few problems in the way of a ride on a glorious day in Tuscany! We had read of a 6km ride to Poggibonsi, along a rail trail. Despite the fact that the Lonely Planet Guide described Poggibonsi as "the ugliest town in Tuscany" that's where we headed. Turned out to be just great. Within 300 metres you are in the countryside, rural views, vegetable fields, flat as a tack. There were a steady stream of walkers and joggers and some cyclists. We easily rolled into the much-maligned town and found a series of piazzas that is the town centre. With the usual small streets running from them it was like other Italian towns...maybe the author was cheesed off 'cause it did not have that Tuscan view.

When we returned to lower Colle the market for the festival had taken over the town. Lana decided to RIDE UP to Old Colle, good grief, and I sensibly and showing my age, took the convenient lift. After a quick shower it was back to lower Colle. We wandered the whole market and noticed several pet stalls selling mice, rabbits and cincilla or goldfish and Terrapins, all pets for tiny spaces. Pork rolls were the main takeaway option with the pork sliced off the whole pig complete with head. Cheeses, salamis, dried anything and spices were the main food stalls. Having ensconced ourselves at a trendy bar, we ate some yummy salads with two glasses of prosecco and a basket of bread that we kept after the meal, pouring the olive oil and balsamic vinegar over it to eat with our remaining prosecco. The waitress was amused.

Back to the apt for a few hours of chilling. Lana has just cooked a yummy chicken sundried tomato mushroom and olive pasta and we are now going back to lower Colle. The crowd was light this afternoon and from what we can deduce, the action is tonight. We will see! X

Definitely a rail trail.

Just the understated outfit to drop down to the boulangerie.

Not sure which are edible?!

 

A couple of hours of people watching.

 

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Colle Di Val D'Elsa

A bit of a mouthful but that is our location. Casual rise this morning, did a load of washing and generally got ourselves organised. We then set out to explore this historic village. As with many European settings, quaint and picturesque around every corner. Little steep alleyways due to its location on the hill, tiny shops that are hidden until you reach their window, panoramas and 3 or 4 historic churches from the 12th century onwards. Unfortunately Phipps, the theatre is closed so I am glad that we had our live production experience in Venice. We descended to the "new town" via the lift and decided coffee and cake were in order at the piazza. A visit to the supermarket and a return via lift to the apt.

After lunch we returned to the lower town, but decided to walk down what would have been the original road leading up into the walled city. Most steep...and a real effort to have to go back up. As we walked to the road, we could hear singing in the larger church. They were rehearsing for a special service tonight. It was then that we worked out that a MAJOR festival is to take place in lower Colle tomorrow. Lucky us!

During our wander we saw a bride arrive at the local church where the entrance was bordered by olive trees in grand pots. Some shops were open and Lana bought some shoes. We walked along a rail trail that is now a bicycle path. Perhaps we will explore that tomorrow.

We are both continually baffled by the routine of apartment living. Such confined spaces and one needs many piazzas to provide social contact space. As many times, before during my travels, I can hear Cat Stevens "Where do the children play?"

Our washing!

 

Somewhere in Colle!

With our supermarket goodies.

The tunnel to the lift to ascend to the Old Town.

 

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Journey to Tuscany

...actually, I have to describe the night before first. We had bought tickets during the day for a Vilvadi concert taking place in one of the grand churches. We left the apartment at 6pm and walked towards the church plaza, about 15 mins away. The evening crowd was lively. Reached the plaza, had dinner, with the young boys playing soccer in the plaza corner...nowhere else to go...and then lined up with the growing queue. Performance of The Four Seasons began at 9. Seven strings and a piano. I had a grin on my face during the whole concert. And the musicians were SO serious. A memorable night.

Left our wonderfully located apt and dragged our cases across the cobbles to the quay, on the ferry and back to the station. Left Renaissance Venice and back to slick modernism. Very crowded train to Florence. Luggage piled in all places. Changed trains and caught the local lightly-occupied train to Siena. Needed to catch the local bus to Colle Di Val d'Elsa, our town for the next 8 days. We missed the closest bus stop and found ourselves heading up a series of escalators and moving walkways to get from the station to the main centre of Siena. And I mean UP. Think Parliament Station 3 times!! Thank goodness our bus was directly at the top. Very local bus to Colle. After 10 minutes we were met by our very apologetic host, Emilio. He drove our bags to the apt but as he had 2 children's seats in the back, we walked the 10 mins to the apt. But what a fantastic 10 minutes. Tuscany is very hilly ie: the train station exit. The old town of Colle, where we are staying, is perched on the ridge above the new town. To get easily between both, from the lower part, one walks through a tunnel into the hillside for approx 40 metres and then takes the lift that rises through the centre of the hill. You emerge in the sunshine, next to the school and on the edge of the ridge. Great view. .

Once in the old town we walked the small cobbled streets, past several small plazas and found our accomm on the edge of the ridge. See photo. Emilio gave us a thorough introduction and then we plonked on the lounge with the kettle, actually saucepan, on for a cuppa. Wonderful location. Much to our delight there are several small local shops. The butcher with cheeses, wine and charcuterie; the small green grocer where you put your goodies in a wicker basket; the baker with a " weird" selection of breads of all sorts and a most tres chic patisserie. With great satisfaction we walked back to the apt and settled in for the night.

Tomorrow we explore.

Our concert venue.

 

When Lana opened her bedroom shutters at Colle, this is what she saw.

 

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Venetian Surprises

A casual rise this morning, though between approx 7.45 and 9am the place is absolutely hopping. School for uni and college starts at 8am and there was a steady stream of social teenagers passing our window...or at least on the other side of the canal. This coincided with the rush hour for deliveries by boat and the garbage collection, also by boat. After 8am, the primary school children are walking the streets. Next time you look out the window, about 8.30, the walkways are the domain of the adults heading to work or escorting the kinder kids. After 9o'clock, the neighbourhood is quiet!

Today was a more casual wander, starting in cloudy conditions and ending in sunshine, stumbling upon large and small piazzas, grand churches, tiny streets and various wonderful or tacky shops. Venice was in full swing with many visitors and various boats plying the waters. Just in time for morning tea at the Florian Cafe ( overpriced but I suspect we will not be here again!) we reached San Marco Square. The lane we approached it by featured every high end brand name you could think of. Certainly an impressive square if you can ignore the humanity.

Our host, Damian, had recommended a visit to the hospital precinct. A bizarre thought but once we eventually found it, the hospital and the adjoining grand church were well worth the visit. The piazza was calm but quietly busy and we enjoyed lunch before we explored the buildings. Sun shining brightly.

Forgot to mention that our first stop was the fish and fresh produce market. A colourful market with the inky cuttlefish, live green crabs and numerous varieties of shellfish being in abundance.

An early start tomorrow for our train trip to Sienna. Thoroughly enjoyed Venice.

The building renovation crew and the supermarket delivery.

 

Tiny streets!

 

Venice's Leaning Tower!

I took a photo of Tony here, 39 years ago.

 

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