Friday, 30 August 2019
Danube Delta Thirteen
Hi folks. Weak wifi here on the Delta. Lovely and quiet at this secluded eco lodge. Tomorrow we head the horses back to Bucharest and have our final dinner together. Tony and I leave early Sunday morning for Barcelona. I will talk to you then with all the catch up news. Cheers K x
Thursday, 29 August 2019
Writing from Kavarna, Bulgaria. Eleven Twelve
Once again...sorry that the photos that accompany this post, are totally out of order. Hope that my commentary helps you make sense of them. It is also difficult to edit a written post. Still...better than nothing. kx
Sitting in accommodation at a ritzy resort. Sublime to the ridiculous would be appropriate.
Calm departure from Istanbul and its ancient walls, past the government propaganda banners and back into the rural areas. We stopped for tea at a park in the middle of a large rural town, 99% men. Bikers that included women were a definite novelty. It was lovely to have a couple of older men want to talk to us, in sign language, about the bikes!
Before we reached the semi-isolated Turkish/Bulgarian border Nicko led us onto a dirt road that eventually led to a family-run restaurant. An enterprising family had turned a stream into a trout farm, built an ever-expanding restaurant over the top and were now building a concrete hotel. The 80 yr old matriarch, dress head to toe and headscarf, greeted Nicko like a long lost son. She sat with us for the majority of the meal, gave us extra bottles of water and towelettes. She even blessed us with sprinkled water as we left.
Next was the border. The usual long wait. 1 1/2 hrs. BUT we were not complaining. Primoz had to take the luggage van through another border, one with 6 lanes. 35 degree plus, and he did not arrive at our hotel until 10.30 pm. We had been asked to take a change of clothes on the bikes in case this happened. A nightmare...especially if there were children in the waiting cars. One of our border officials was young and friendly. During a brief conversation about Oz, I quietly said....”and there are no border crossings!” He grinned widely with an understanding smile!
Our evening stop was at a UNESCO listed town that used to be on an island but now has a causeway. Big mistake. Nessebar is the Dubrovnik of Bulgaria. Any historic ambiance has been horribly swamped by tourist over-kill. Fortunately, at our clifftop restaurant, incredibly crowded, our waiter was a star and hats off to the kitchen staff. I returned the next morning for an uncluttered look. I actually found some interesting sights, and was also fascinated by the elegant dress of some, at 7.30. in the morning.
Today was an easy ride to Thracian Cliffs Golf Resort. On the way we stopped at a beachside cafe for a real cappuccino. Our first real seaside since we started. And of course, this is the Black Sea. I was reminded that we were in Bulgaria when I spotted some more of that quirky street art.
After a meander along a bushy secondary road, we started to see prominent limestone cliffs. Through a grand entry and Voila, this very large, fancy place beside the sea and those cliffs. They provide buggies to get you around as the place is so big. You call them at the reception.
However, our introduction was a memorable lunch over-looking the deep blue sea. Quite special.
A buggy took us down to the sea where I swam in the Black Sea off the Bulgarian coast. I did think that was a hoot.
Tonight Nicko has booked us a table for dinner, beside the said sea. Photos to follow.
Sitting in accommodation at a ritzy resort. Sublime to the ridiculous would be appropriate.
Calm departure from Istanbul and its ancient walls, past the government propaganda banners and back into the rural areas. We stopped for tea at a park in the middle of a large rural town, 99% men. Bikers that included women were a definite novelty. It was lovely to have a couple of older men want to talk to us, in sign language, about the bikes!
Before we reached the semi-isolated Turkish/Bulgarian border Nicko led us onto a dirt road that eventually led to a family-run restaurant. An enterprising family had turned a stream into a trout farm, built an ever-expanding restaurant over the top and were now building a concrete hotel. The 80 yr old matriarch, dress head to toe and headscarf, greeted Nicko like a long lost son. She sat with us for the majority of the meal, gave us extra bottles of water and towelettes. She even blessed us with sprinkled water as we left.
Next was the border. The usual long wait. 1 1/2 hrs. BUT we were not complaining. Primoz had to take the luggage van through another border, one with 6 lanes. 35 degree plus, and he did not arrive at our hotel until 10.30 pm. We had been asked to take a change of clothes on the bikes in case this happened. A nightmare...especially if there were children in the waiting cars. One of our border officials was young and friendly. During a brief conversation about Oz, I quietly said....”and there are no border crossings!” He grinned widely with an understanding smile!
Our evening stop was at a UNESCO listed town that used to be on an island but now has a causeway. Big mistake. Nessebar is the Dubrovnik of Bulgaria. Any historic ambiance has been horribly swamped by tourist over-kill. Fortunately, at our clifftop restaurant, incredibly crowded, our waiter was a star and hats off to the kitchen staff. I returned the next morning for an uncluttered look. I actually found some interesting sights, and was also fascinated by the elegant dress of some, at 7.30. in the morning.
Today was an easy ride to Thracian Cliffs Golf Resort. On the way we stopped at a beachside cafe for a real cappuccino. Our first real seaside since we started. And of course, this is the Black Sea. I was reminded that we were in Bulgaria when I spotted some more of that quirky street art.
After a meander along a bushy secondary road, we started to see prominent limestone cliffs. Through a grand entry and Voila, this very large, fancy place beside the sea and those cliffs. They provide buggies to get you around as the place is so big. You call them at the reception.
However, our introduction was a memorable lunch over-looking the deep blue sea. Quite special.
A buggy took us down to the sea where I swam in the Black Sea off the Bulgarian coast. I did think that was a hoot.
Tonight Nicko has booked us a table for dinner, beside the said sea. Photos to follow.
Tuesday, 27 August 2019
Istanbul Nine Ten
I probably expected more chaos in Istanbul. Why they allow cars in the main historic precinct is beyond me, but other than that, we have found the areas that we have moved in, tourist friendly.
Lots of walking on our two days here. Tony’s knee has held up well and it really hasn’t stopped us from doing major things. Fortunately the Sibiu anti-biotics have worked and his stamina has returned.
First day we had a guide that stayed with us from 9am to 3pm. A bit of a character who smoked too much for someone who relies on his voice.
We are amused at the volume of tourists here. We have been in the streets at 9am and they are quiet. Visit a site and come out at 11am and one is gaping at the loooong queues at every tourist magnet. Having a guide yesterday, on quite a hot day, was most expedient as he got us by the crowds. I am sure we must have cheesed off quite a few people. On the other practical side, a great effort is made to keep this very large tourist precinct clean and there is a surprising amount of WC’s...clean too!!
So we have seen fancy palaces, grand churches and the ubiquitous Blue Mosque. The latter is being restored and not at its best. One has to be appropriately covered to enter this mosque. Our Turkish guide was very sceptical about this requirement...he does not know where this need is mentioned in the Koran. The historical importance of the Ottaman Empire and consequently, that of the Sultan, was an interesting revelation. Even Queen Victoria made sure that she was in his good books. We have seen items that reinforce the Arabian Night’s image of jewel encrusted swords, weaponry and items found in the homes of the well-to-do. Opulent fabrics and those GRAND fancy beds add to the picture.
Our favourite place was the unfortunately called “Cistern.” In approx 540AD they built a cavernous underground water tank to hold the water for the town, that arrived by those fantastic viaducts. They were into recycling. Columns and capitols plundered from conquered towns were used to support the arched roof. Water still drips into the massive bunker as you wander the raised walkways. Terrific ancient engineering. One of the most famous recycled items are two Medusa heads, disrespectfully placed sideways and upside down!
We visited the Grand Bazaar at 9am today. Expecting Moroccan-Fes-like chaos I was so surprised to see wide arcades with painted roofs and mini-shops that spilled out onto the tiles rather than the higgedly-piggedly, dark claustrophobia of Morocco. We liked how messengers/ waiters would deftly move amongst the stall holders with silver trays laden with small curved glasses of tea, and sugar. Pre-ordered coffee equivalent! We happily wandered, eventually buying Tony his Turkish Delight...a family-known favourite...and a suitably Turkish table-runner for me. Probably paid too much, but it will bring back most fond memories.
Back on the bikes tomorrow. All the locals that we have encountered have been nothing but helpful and friendly. Being an Aussie, and travelling on a motorbike, helped. I will return to Oz with an altered perception of Istanbul.
Not sure about time and internet over the next few days. Talk when I can. K x
Lots of walking on our two days here. Tony’s knee has held up well and it really hasn’t stopped us from doing major things. Fortunately the Sibiu anti-biotics have worked and his stamina has returned.
First day we had a guide that stayed with us from 9am to 3pm. A bit of a character who smoked too much for someone who relies on his voice.
We are amused at the volume of tourists here. We have been in the streets at 9am and they are quiet. Visit a site and come out at 11am and one is gaping at the loooong queues at every tourist magnet. Having a guide yesterday, on quite a hot day, was most expedient as he got us by the crowds. I am sure we must have cheesed off quite a few people. On the other practical side, a great effort is made to keep this very large tourist precinct clean and there is a surprising amount of WC’s...clean too!!
So we have seen fancy palaces, grand churches and the ubiquitous Blue Mosque. The latter is being restored and not at its best. One has to be appropriately covered to enter this mosque. Our Turkish guide was very sceptical about this requirement...he does not know where this need is mentioned in the Koran. The historical importance of the Ottaman Empire and consequently, that of the Sultan, was an interesting revelation. Even Queen Victoria made sure that she was in his good books. We have seen items that reinforce the Arabian Night’s image of jewel encrusted swords, weaponry and items found in the homes of the well-to-do. Opulent fabrics and those GRAND fancy beds add to the picture.
Our favourite place was the unfortunately called “Cistern.” In approx 540AD they built a cavernous underground water tank to hold the water for the town, that arrived by those fantastic viaducts. They were into recycling. Columns and capitols plundered from conquered towns were used to support the arched roof. Water still drips into the massive bunker as you wander the raised walkways. Terrific ancient engineering. One of the most famous recycled items are two Medusa heads, disrespectfully placed sideways and upside down!
We visited the Grand Bazaar at 9am today. Expecting Moroccan-Fes-like chaos I was so surprised to see wide arcades with painted roofs and mini-shops that spilled out onto the tiles rather than the higgedly-piggedly, dark claustrophobia of Morocco. We liked how messengers/ waiters would deftly move amongst the stall holders with silver trays laden with small curved glasses of tea, and sugar. Pre-ordered coffee equivalent! We happily wandered, eventually buying Tony his Turkish Delight...a family-known favourite...and a suitably Turkish table-runner for me. Probably paid too much, but it will bring back most fond memories.
Back on the bikes tomorrow. All the locals that we have encountered have been nothing but helpful and friendly. Being an Aussie, and travelling on a motorbike, helped. I will return to Oz with an altered perception of Istanbul.
Not sure about time and internet over the next few days. Talk when I can. K x
Monday, 26 August 2019
Gallipoli to Istanbul Eight
Leave the Houses at 6.30 to ride the 7kms to Anzac Cove with our tail lights shining in the dawn.Slightly surreal to arrive so easily to this much-seen view on TV and we are the only ones here. All is very manicured since the Anzac’s landed 100 year’s ago. The horrible daily reality of battle and just survival, can still be appreciated however. We then rode to Lone Pine. Seriously, how often have we heard of that place in our lifetimes? Again, the place to ourselves. By the time we arrived at the memorial to Ataturk, a few cars were joining us. Eerie to understand that there are still the remains of unfound soldiers amongst the hills we were riding through.
Back to the Houses for a scrummy breakfast prepared by our host.
Back on the wide highway for an hour or so and then a right hand turn towards the coast. A local bumpy road through small hillside and coastal villages. Lovely ride that ended at a rustic cafe by the sea for coffee. After the cafe we ascended into the hills for a dramatic windy road through the hills that hugged the coast. Expansive coastal views and also Sunday Turkish drivers! Another seaview venue for lunch and further fresh food using the local produce and seafood.
Now we began to reach the outskirts of Istanbul. We were still 2 hrs away from our hotel but the congestion had started. We were gradually introduced to the realities of coping with 80 million people. The Sunday traffic was relentless on this four sometimes six lane artery. The number of high rise apartment buildings kept my gaping mouth open. As we were getting closer to the city, think Docklands x 100 and then I might be underestimating. The size of the public buildings and several universities!!! At least 35 cargo and tankers anchored offshore. Kilometres of parkland along the Bosphorus lined with trees and with a picnicking family under every one of them. The scale of everything blew my mind.
Suddenly Tony said “We are here!” We turned from a coastal road into the Old City that hugged the end of the European peninsula and with evidence of the original protective wall. What a relief to turn into the garage and to park and walk away from the bikes. The terrific Primoz would look after them.
Our room has a sneaky view of the sea and we have a sea breeze.
Showered and cooled down, Nicko led us into the old city for dinner. Under the stars we enjoyed refreshing drinks and were highly entertained by Mike trying to get some smoke from his Bong!
Back to the Houses for a scrummy breakfast prepared by our host.
Back on the wide highway for an hour or so and then a right hand turn towards the coast. A local bumpy road through small hillside and coastal villages. Lovely ride that ended at a rustic cafe by the sea for coffee. After the cafe we ascended into the hills for a dramatic windy road through the hills that hugged the coast. Expansive coastal views and also Sunday Turkish drivers! Another seaview venue for lunch and further fresh food using the local produce and seafood.
Now we began to reach the outskirts of Istanbul. We were still 2 hrs away from our hotel but the congestion had started. We were gradually introduced to the realities of coping with 80 million people. The Sunday traffic was relentless on this four sometimes six lane artery. The number of high rise apartment buildings kept my gaping mouth open. As we were getting closer to the city, think Docklands x 100 and then I might be underestimating. The size of the public buildings and several universities!!! At least 35 cargo and tankers anchored offshore. Kilometres of parkland along the Bosphorus lined with trees and with a picnicking family under every one of them. The scale of everything blew my mind.
Suddenly Tony said “We are here!” We turned from a coastal road into the Old City that hugged the end of the European peninsula and with evidence of the original protective wall. What a relief to turn into the garage and to park and walk away from the bikes. The terrific Primoz would look after them.
Our room has a sneaky view of the sea and we have a sea breeze.
Showered and cooled down, Nicko led us into the old city for dinner. Under the stars we enjoyed refreshing drinks and were highly entertained by Mike trying to get some smoke from his Bong!
To Gallipoli Seven
Another longish riding day. Left quiet Plovdiv and quickly into the countryside to the mountains. Pleasant sweeping ride over the cool Makaza Pass. Stopped for coffee at a busy crossroads in a town and Ian acted as our waiter. It was a steady ride to the Greek border and a relatively easy crossing. The roads on the other side were like wonderful highways and swept us down to the coast. Coming to a busy seaside resort, Alexandropolous, we were led to a restaurant by the sea. Quiet as, and the BEST food. So fresh. Yummy grilled calamari and freshly fried baby octopus and calamari. Loved the tempura-like zucchini. Then hour or so to Turkish Border where we all had to behave ourselves. Damn Hot and we snuck up the queue...tolerated by some and not by others in their air-conditioned cars! There were 4 official booths altogether so this crossing took about 2 hours. However, the queue on the other side, to leave Turkey, was comically long. I guess near to 2 kilometres. Lord knows how long they would take to get through. However, after a stop at a service station to cool down, we eventually were riding into the Gallipoli Peninsula. It was quite industrial at first, but soon the agriculture re-appeared and we wended our way to a small village on the edge of the sacred park. The Gallipoli Houses are run by an enterprising family, made of stone and just delightful. We all enjoyed quiet drinks in the cosy nook area and then a delicious home-cooked meal. Early rise tomorrow for those of us who want to go to Anzac Cove.
Ps. I have no idea why the photos do not post in order. I am happy that they at least go through k xx
Ps. I have no idea why the photos do not post in order. I am happy that they at least go through k xx
Saturday, 24 August 2019
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