DayNineRestDay near Dubrovnik.

Lovely warm day but Tony not 100%. Decide to forgo anything organised and laze at the hotel. Great chance for me to catch up on postcards, emails and Blog. Sat on the balcony in view of the sea and whiled away some hours. I wandered along the beach and people watched. Later in the afternoon Tony needed a walk in fresh air so we joined the passing parade on a shoreline path. Caught up with others from the group for a drink( me only) and later sought out a supermarket for something light. Opportune that today was a rest day.

Warm and peaceful on the balcony.

Pleasant walk in the evening to people watch.

School has returned but there are still holidaymakers about.

 

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DayEight To Dubrovnik

Leave Budva and it is already 27 C. Our first destination is the mausoleum of Petar 11 , revered leader who began the unification of Montenegro and the Yugoslav region. Up and up we go, good road, passing outdoor recreation camps, in the forest, on the way. Reach the RIDICULOUSLY tiny circular car park at the base of the monument which was in constant congestion during our pleasant 1/1/2 hr visit. Great cafe with yummy Lake Bled cake and tea. Decide to climb the 461 steps to the monument, not easy in bike jeans and boots. Head down and just keep lifting the feet. Felt good when I reached the top. Petar must be much liked as his resting place is amazing.

We left the tomb on a goat track. Single lane, ragged edges and potholes with cars coming towards us and we had to stop to let them pass otherwise we would drop off the road. Great views!!! Then we reached the most amazing series of hairpins on one stretch of road that surely cannot be beaten anywhere.

This eventually lead us to Kotor, on the coast, a former Venetian stronghold and quite complete walled-city. Lunchtime. The usual congestion. What followed was a painfully slow ride along the superb blue sea, into Croatia and heading to Dubrovnik. Clear sea , consistent warm weather, steep rocky mountain shoreline and umpteen people and too much development.

Our spacious lovely hotel beside the beach is indeed part of this proliferation. No doubt about that!

We were put in taxis to be taken just outside the Dubrovnik entry gate where a very nice restaurant awaited.

Another pleasant evening under balmy skies.

Ascending from Budva.

Petar 11 Mauseleum

461 steps mainly in a tunnel, to reach the tomb. Note the tiny car park!!!!

Just a part of the switchbacks we, Tony, needed to negotiate.

Venetian Kotor with ancient citadel on the hill behind.

Dubrovnik at night. Fortunately we dined peacefully outside the walls.

In sight of the city gate

 

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Days 6/7 To the Coast via The Alps.

I got up early at Mostar to walk back to THAT bridge to view it without the razzamatazz of a diver playing the crowd as he prepared to plunge. Deliberately destroyed during the war, the 400 yr old bridge was replicated accurately and re-opened in 2014. It was also obvious in this city, that here, east meets west. Bosnia still has a high percentage of Muslim residents and tourists from the Middle East are a growing force.

Leaving an already-warm Mostar, we travelled for hours along a wide, flat valley. There was a degree of agriculture, but the current drought made any vegetation look stressed. The air stayed hazy. Actually we rode above the valley, along its high edge. Hardly a straight stretch, much to the delight of the riders. Despite the heat there were people with little road side stalls selling honey. Hard way to earn a living!

We crossed into Montenegro, although after a delay and indifference from the officials, Anze ( pronounced ...on jay..by the way ) had to use some charm and they let us through without seeing our passports! We had lunch in a small family run restaurant of yummy veggie soup and a simple salad...great bread. After a long descent we turned sharply left and headed back into the mountains. After a re- group we turned onto a single lane road. Hmmm? Up and up. Some cars and cyclists. Got above the snow line and reached a junction that had a log cabin inn and a small camp site. Some cyclists used it as a base. After a wander we started again and within minutes we were in this most surreal landscape. The highest plateau in the Balkans and the Durmitor NP. Short golden grass surrounded by giant rock peaks and seemingly on top of the world. I was hanging off the bike in all directions trying to capture the sight. We stopped for a group photo and our mouths were full of superlatives. We were heading to an alpine resort but definitely getting there on the back road.

The hotel was terrific...all apartments. A rowdy dinner was conducted in their restaurant.

It rained all night but was clearing as we left to head to the coast. Morning's scenery was also great. For four hours we descended. Montenegro is a tiny country of mountain peaks split by deep canyons. We spent the morning switch backing down the mountain side or riding beside pristine rivers at the bottom of very deep canyons. Quite special.

Then we hit the coast and were immediately confronted by traffic and over-the-top tourism development. Super busy. Gladly reached our nice hotel and the peace of our room.

Two hours later we met to walk into the old town section of Budpa. This resort is popular with the Russians. They have bought many of the hotels. The old town was cute but reminded us of many Moroccan villages so we were a little under- whelmed. Opted for a wine rather than a wander. Dinner in a restaurant near the water's edge and wonderfully looked after, we were.

 

Early morning at the Mostar Bridge.

Avoiding the heat at the Montenegro border.

Note the two tunnels on our switchback road.

Durmitor NP.

 

More canyons to ride downto the coast.

Luxury boats and private luxury hotel. Many contrasts on this tour.

 

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Day Five Sarajevo to Mostar

After a night of cold beer, yummy meals and of course, ice-cream, it was time to hit the road again. The mornings riding was through thickly wooded mountains and along the base of dramatic canyons. All with quality road surfaces and twisty bends to keep the riders happy...as well as on their toes! The occasional Farmer Ivanca or maybe just a slow car were all that prevented the flow of the ride. After a late morning coffee, the landscape changed to a harsh rocky mood. Temperature rose significantly as we descended into the valley that shelters Mostar. Anze lead us down a series of small streets until we started to notice ubiquitous crowds. What for thinks me? A river appears to our right. Tourist stalls line the narrow road. We are directed to park our bikes. It is very hot. Walking with our gear behind Anze we start to notice the attraction. The river emerges from a sheer rock face, crystal clear. A strategically placed monastery adds to the vista. Umpteen river level restaurants hug the water. We are treated to a dish of delightful trout and potatoes. After we had cooled down and eaten, the hotel was only a short ride away. A new, modern hotel with a pool!!! A refreshing swim before dinner and time to write this entry.

 

Commemorating a Yugoslav Partisan victory against Nazi Germany.

 

Hot and hazy as we enter the valley of Mostar.

During our meal here we heard a scary rumble. There had been a small rockslide to the left of the monastery.

No Jack without Jill...no attraction without tourism.

 

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In the town of Sarajevo. After a restfull evening we were greeted by our young guide Elsa who would be with us for 3 to 4 hours. It is unfortunate, but tourism surrounding the war is a major economic driver in this tiny country. Elsa's grandparents and parents were swamped by the siege that lasted over 3 years. She was born the year after it ended in 1995. The blatant nationalism of the attacking Serbs and the fierce determination of the mixed race citizens of Sarajevo led to a sad and destructive impasse. A senseless mess. Coupled with the massacres at a town I will never spell correctly...Scevraniza..( Dutch peace keepers welcomed Muslim refugees who were eventually massacred by the Serbs) ...the Balkans war pitched peaceful neighbours against one another. After spending time with Elsa, Tony and I then visited a film museum depicting original footage of the war years. I was seriously over being sad by the time we left that building. This is in contrast to Elsa's request that we not be sad in Sarajevo, as they are a forgiving people and much wry humour was made during the siege. Apparently the theory is that the Serbs wanted take the city but could not cope with the 400 000 population. If they could encourage half to leave ( no water, gas, electricity, bombardment) ) they would then move in. But the citizens banded together and did not leave.

A major saviour was the 800 metre tunnel that they dug to,access an area beyond the attacking forces. This lifeline provided enough materials and food sources to keep them sustained. We visited remnants of that tunnel. After the massacres at Scevraniza, the Bosnian President very reluctantly agreed to sign a bad peace deal. So today, this tiny country of 4 million, has 3 presidents ( for each ethnic group) 2 states and 14 local governments. Nothing is achieved and the under 25 unemployment is 61%. The young are leaving. When will be the next revolution? So sad.

Having said all of that,there is life in this city. The nightlife is vibrant and the streets are full of families and tourists. We will leave here with a much clearer understanding of The Balkans war, but again shaking our head at man's inhumanity to man.

 

The perfect place for a siege.

Our excellent guide Elsa playing the fool as we leave the non-descript home that was the entrance to the tunnel

Christian and Muslims have worked hard to retain Sarajevo as a tolerant city.

 

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Day Two to Sarajevo

Second day and it's going to be the longest on the bike 400kms plus. AND it's hot...35 C. Not long after leaving the park we actually leave Croatia and cross into Bosnia-Herzegovina and into a new valley. This one is like the Goulburn area at the end of summer. Wide sweeping valley of drier looking pasture land with few villages. Absolutely fantastic roads, smooth as silk and no potholes. After an hour or so we note abandoned villages...perhaps too hard to re-establish in this harsher environment. Next valley is littered with limestone rocks and still dry,a bit Greek like. Day is warm and lunch is welcomed...a local delicacy of filo-type pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and spinach. We opt for the later. The desserts available looked deadly sweet.

Rising over the rocky range we arrive at a slightly greener valley with a Tyrolean feel. We have noticed a significant number of homes that are not finished. All bricked up and occupied but not rendered. If they are not finished, the tax will not be charged.! We are confronted by what should have been lovely lake vista, but Bosnia is in drought conditions and the lake and subsequent river that we followed for many kms, were very low.

We reach Sarajevo at 5.30 pm. Still hot but manageable. I am slightly in dis-belief that I am in this town with such a tragic recent history. The town is in a valley, surrounded by hills that made it easy to besiege. We followed that train line that runs through the middle of the town where citizens tried to run from one side to the other during their daily life, avoiding snipers in the hills. Obvious evidence of war damage remains amongst the vast re-building programme that has taken place.

Our competent guide leads as to our hotel...nearly being taken out himself by an in-attentive woman. However, hot and sweaty, we rejoice at arriving and know that we have no other long hauls in front of us.

That evening we are lead through the old town to dine. Being in an Islamic city, our quenching beer and wine had to wait a little.

Top...the mosques here have rocket-type minarets! Just above....the sweeping roads made for swift riding.

 

For my Teacher friends!

An all to familiar sight to an Aussie...bushfire smoke. We found out later that the firemen cannot go into the bush due to land mines.

A sadly depleted lake in the background.

Our guide, Anze, trying to take our group photo.

 

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Day One to Plitvice NP.

A few days to catch up on!

Finally ready to go. Tentatively through the town centre and then onto the highway. A VERY spirited jaunt along the highway before turning onto minor roads. Slovenia is very pretty, lush and economically secure. Pleasing to see so many sporting facilities. Vast fields of green corn apparently of which, much is used for fuel!

Despite a regulated marking system at corners, a turn was missed. When we pulled over with 4 others to turn around, Tony's foot found a hole and next thing we are gently falling to the green edge of the road. No probs. Pick up the bike and get ready to climb back. Bike won't start.Completely dead. A few phone calls were made and opinions given. Tony decides to roll back to the corner and in the process...the electronics re-appeared. All was well and has been ever since.

Crossed into Croatia and the appearance of the country immediately changed. Houses not quite so neat and terrain drier. We see our first evidence of the Balkans War of the 1990's. After a coffee and lunch break we start to reach our destination...Plitvice NP. World heritage listed and RIDICULOUSLY inundated with people! It is approx 3.30pm. After booking into our time-warp 1960's hotel, a real treasure of retro decor, we are taken by bus to the top of one of the numerous walks. The mountainous park consists of a network of multiple lakes, merged by a series of fairy glen type waterfalls. The forest is deciduous beautiful and the water in the lakes absolutely crystal clear. It is a treasure but the crowds! The paths are so worn that they, and the immediate area around them, are covered in a fine dust of erosion.

It is very warm and we are pleased to return to the hotel for a shower and tea. Taken to a restaurant that specialises in the cooking method of the area...open barbecue spits. We need to get used to eating a high percentage of meat.

Do the GPS's work?

 

Beautiful Plitvice NP

crystal clear water

Retro lovers would be in 7th heaven.

 

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Lovely Ljubljana

I think I finally have the spelling right! What a lovely town. The city fathers had the foresight approx 8 years ago to remove traffic from the old city centre. Now it is a pleasant town to wander with a mixture of cobbled streets, quaint facades and many Baroque buildings surrounding the attractive river that runs through the centre. Under sunny skies we wandered and eventually decided that coffee was in order. We sat near three Aussie Girls from Maffra!

Returning for the tour briefing at 2 pm we met our 7 American co-riders. They are also a friendship group. We all got on well immediately. The age group is similar and, importantly, all the men are competent riders. We make a team of 14 participants on 8 bikes. Anjez is our young riding guide and we have Matej in the support vehicle and Roc transporting our luggage. The 8 men went on a practise run on the unfamiliar bikes and us 6 ladies adjourned to the bar.

The evening saw us walk to the cable car that takes you to the central castle. Our first meal together was in the grounds of the castle. VERY nice!

Up early tomorrow for a 8.30 start. Temperature 30 C. It will be fun!

Three Bridges crossing the river

Lynda, Greg and Jamie from Mansfield.

A wooden bike...for all my cycle friends.

Ljubljana prides itself on clean, drinkable water from all town fountains.

Setting a high standard for the rest of the trip.

 

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