Ireland 5th Report Returning to Dublin.

Awoke in Kinsale to the sound of rain on the roof.  We have been so lucky with the normally very rainy Irish winter weather, that we were not going to complain. Decided to have a cuppa in the room then drive to somewhere along  the route for breakfast as little was going to be open now. Made our way along secondary roads in order to bypass busy Cork.  That worked and soon we were on the efficient M8 heading north. Sky was now a weak blue.  After a lovely breakfast at Fermoy we turned off at Cashel to find the Kilkenny road.   Spotting the very impressive structures on the Rock of Cashel we decided to stop for a look. Joined a tour that told of the laborious  restoration of the 12th century chapel. Water had seeped into the 800 yr old limestone and was eroding the chapel.   In 2008 they put a roof over the entire structure to allow it to dry out naturally. That took years.  Once dry, they could commence restoration. The grand opening was last year!!!!   Talk about long term planning.

Reached Kilkenny at lunchtime and stumbled upon the impressive castle once owned by the Dukes of Pembroke. Left to ruin in recent centuries, the good ole state took it on board and restored it to its former glory.  HUGE money spent on maintaining history in this country.

Tony navigated Dublin peak hour and we happily returned the car unscathed. Taxi back to The Ripley, our port of call upon arrival 9 days ago. Final evening with Gary, as we were flying to Malta at 7am and he was spending the day wandering the city before his flight to Dubai and a 3 day stay.

Condiments as well as a jug of milk was placed on every table. In Oz??

Seat of power in the 12th century...on the Rock of Cashel.

Inside the now dry chapel.

The cathedral, eventually ransacked by Cromwell of course. 

We liked Kilkenny too, Lana.

Last night together. At O'Sheas Pub. 

Ireland 4th Report County Kerry

I am writing from the coastal town of Kinsale just south of Cork in southern Ireland. We have spent the last 2 days exploring this charming, rugged, sometimes lush and relatively unspoilt region.

We started by travelling the popular Ring of Kerry trail with coastal views, ruined Abbeys and castles.   Arriving at the major town of Caherviseen saw us wander some stone circles. These are structures created prior to 400AD that sheltered both domestic animals and their human owners. The one we saw had been partially restored but crumbling remains of many more are dotted throughout Ireland.  We then diverted off the beaten trail to reach dramatic cliffs further south.  I even had a Poldark moment!!

The scenery was rugged, roads narrow and photo opportunities regular. There are advantages in travelling here in winter.  You have the sites to yourself, there is little road traffic and because the hedges and trees are bare of leaves you can actually see further. And we have been so lucky with the weather.   It has been overcast but not wet...except this morning when we will be high-tailing it back to Dublin.  Occasionally a drizzle laden mist would descend but each time that we wanted to wander or take photos, it was clear.  We have been surprised at the number of free-standing impressive homes in this region. Many of them.   It clashes with the perhaps misconception that the Irish economy is struggling or has struggled. Although I think the jury is still out on that one.

We were very late back to Killarney with Tony relieving Gary of the driving and spending the last 2 hrs driving in the dark.  A 6pm return saw us head to a bar and then friendly family-run restaurant for tea.

Next day saw us further south- east and more on the coast of pretty coves and wide, strong flowing rivers. There is absolutely no shortage of water here. And that cliched emerald green is alive and well. We stopped at Bantry for lunch in a far-too-cute pub and then more coves.   The towns have all maintained their original look and each one is worthy of a wander.  All still have their Christmas decorations up and this certainly adds to their appeal in the evenings.

We arrived in Kinsale at the respectable hour of 4pm.  Checked into our Main St Guesthouse and wandered around the estuary.   Found a bar on the hill and decided to have a drink with the locals, back down the hill, yummy local mussels for my dinner and then another walk for good measure. Lovely calm evening.  

Back to Dublin via Kilkenny today and an early rise on Tuesday as Tony and I fly to Malta.


We are not oblivious to the mess at home.   As soon as anyone realises that we are Australian they ask about the fires. Reports are constantly on the news.  Thanks friends for telling us about some rain that has fallen.   I have asked many locals to do rain dances for us because that is the only way out. Rain.

Here I am driving in Ireland!!

Near Caversheen

Partially reconstructed stone circle.

Cliffs of Kerry...with a Poldark scene in background.

The lane that lead to our Killarney apt.

SO DAMP.    Layers of moss and lichen dripping from trees. 

A road scene that I liked.

Lunch at Bantry

Loved the contrast of colours. 

He manages a bike-speak in every country that we visit. 

Cute spot in Kinsale.

Drinks at The Spaniard in Kinsale. 

Ireland 3rd Report To Killarney

The After Wedding Party took place at Callan's Bar, at the other end of the High St from The Shirley.
Around 7.30 a table was laid with large containers of curry and rice, where Best Man Blake and Bride's brother Richard proceeded to serve to all the guests who lined up.There was also a selection of finger food.  More animated chat and jolliness! The singer from the wedding band played LOUD acoustic in the corner, with eventually a few appearances by the Ceremony singer, some friends and our Gary!
It was a raucous last hurrah.

Breakfast next morning was very subdued. I think the hectic pace had finally caught up with everyone...and it was also Farewell time.
So, with pressure on Colin to arrange a movie night back home, we loaded our bags in the car and exited Carrickmacross.

Gary drove the 7 hours to Killarney.   To reach a slick motorway heading south-west we decided to go cross-country through many minor roads.  An experience for Gary that included narrow roads lined to the driving edge with hedges, very uneven surfaces, blind bends, quaint narrow one-lane bridges, slowing right down behind impassable farming machinery, crawling through some larger towns with narrow streets and averaging about 70 kph.    Still, it was very Irish. Never-ending green paddocks, hedgerows, double-storey rendered farm houses, cute villages all under a blue sky and a very weak sun.
Arrived Killarney about 4.30pm. Found our airbnb down Post Office Lane in the centre of town, eventually found somewhere to park the car and headed to a pub for a meal. Have only seen Killarney in the dark but it had the hallmarks of a well-established tourist town. The pub was jumping but they found us a table in the quiet dining area where we were eventually joined by several other groups. We enjoyed the peace after our other loud encounters at pubs!!   A wander along the High St and its Christmas lights, grabbed some breakfast provisions from the Centra store, before a very early night.

At the Shirley Bar before heading to The Callan. 

At The Shirley

Cousins at Callan's.

Kerry and I at Callan's Bar

Checking out of The Shirley Arms. 

Stopped near Slane Castle 'cause Gary liked the entrance. 

High St Killarney

Liked the clever red and white Christmasy theme of the window display.

Ireland 2nd Report The Wedding

Phew!   An event and a half!!

I left you NYE afternoon. As it happened, the groom (my nephew Jonathan, Colin's eldest son) had arranged that we have drinks that night at Cabra Castle, approx 10 mins from Carrickmacross.  We arrived en masse, up the impressive driveway to the fairytale castle. There was room for us in a side room and many decided to have their meal there as well. The gold and burgundy Christmas Tree was stunning.  Near to 9pm we returned to our hotel where the kitchen was still open and Tony, Gary and myself opted for a light meal. Decided to not see in the New Year although live music was scheduled to begin at 11pm. Glad that we could not hear it in our room.

Excitement pervaded the next morning at breakfast as this was The Wedding Day.  We all needed to vacate our rooms, leave all of our luggage in a designated room, be dressed for the event and carry a small overnight bag as we were all staying at the venue. At 1.30pm the bus arrived and we were off. An hour's ride and we arrived at another fairytale venue, Ballymagarvey Village. Originally a mill site that housed all workers and their needs, it was now a self-contained reception venue. Truly beautiful with manicured gardens against the attractive stone buildings. The Christmas decorations were an added bonus. We gathered in a bar area for pre-ceremony drinks (!!!) and then were directed to the upstairs chapel. Amy's parents and her brother had been married in the very grand Catholic church in town. Amy and Jono had a 15 minute celebrant service that included a bridesmaid singing Wedding Day from a Celtic Women album. Quite mesmerising.   Before we knew it they were Mr and Mrs Roberts.  While the photo thing was happening, we were in The Manor House having drinks and finger food.

Next, a wander along the cobbled pathway for the Wedding Breakfast. A few photos of the outside magical setting at night time before we gaped at the lavish reception room.  An excellent pianist was providing the background music. Speeches first.  They lasted quite awhile with both Fathers reflecting upon the Irish/Aussie connection. Jono and his Best Man, brother Blake, were eloquent and sincere. It was a pleasure to listen to them all.       A high class meal followed, delivered with military -like precision. A team of five would emerge from the kitchen, walk crisply to each table, position themselves behind two guests and upon signal place the meals on the table. Most impressive. Plates were retrieved in a similar fashion.
After the meal we were treated to a display of Irish dancing presented by a professional troupe. Then the band played. At 1am it was the DJ's turn.  Tony and I opted for an early retreat, but the fun became heightened, being finally over at 3am. Gary's videos painted a vibrant picture of the goings on...a phrase used deliberately!

Back into the Manor House for breakfast, utilising quality decorated crockery...not utilitarian white.

I wandered the House taking photos of the exquisite Christmas decorations. It takes them a week to assemble them, during which the site is closed.  On the bus at 12.15pm and back to The Shirley Hotel. The general agreement was that the Wedding of Jono and Amy was...perfect.

Time for a restful afternoon before we meet at another pub, within walking distance, for our final arranged meal with the group before many, including The Horns, leave tomorrow.

"Memorable" seems a tame word to sum up this truly special event, planned between distant continents.

The gold/burgandy tree at Cabra Castle. 

Cabra Castle

Arriving at The Village

Jono and Amy

Inside The Manor House

On the way to the reception.

Siblings

The Groom's speech. 

Add caption

Irish Dancers

A next-morning wander. 

Relaxing in one of the sitting rooms before returning to Carrickmacross. 

Ireland First Report

Sitting in our hotel room at Carrickmacross, about 1 1/2 hrs north-west of Dublin. It is grey and misty  outside and the lights in the streets and window displays are beginning to come on...3.30pm! The major topic when the Aussies first came together in this hotel was the early onset of darkness and the late arrival of daylight causing havoc with all our body clocks.

A pleasant though long flight from Melbourne with a 2hr stopover in Doha.  We were amused by the central feature of the airport. A giant teddy bear that apparently symbolises the curiosity of childhood which in turn includes a fascination with Space. Arrived in Dublin 12.30pm Sunday. Green grass, white sheep and rendered homes near the airport signalled that we were not in Oz. Wanting to stay awake until the evening, we wandered down to the River Liffey and along the banks to the popular Temple Bar precinct. Busy with shoppers and tourists. Lana had asked us to check whether the coffee shop that she worked in during her stay here in 2004 was still there in Duke St, just off the major pedestrian mall of Grafton St.    No...West Coast Coffee seems to have faded away. Lots of buskers and more shoppers before we returned to our hotel to meet Gary who had arrived the night before.
After a re-fresh, a quick chat to the concierge directed us to "O'Sheas Bar"  at the next crossroad for a meal.    A medium- sized pub with all the atmosphere one expects from an Irish establishment.  Two drinks and hearty meal later the three of us agreed to call it a night. Looked at my watch. Good Grief it is only 7.10pm!! It had been dark since 4pm.

Next day we picked up a hire car and headed north. Fortunately the roads were quiet due to the holiday period, so exiting Dublin was relatively calm for our driver, Gary. On the way to the bride's hometown of Carrickmacross we were to pass by the ancient domed mounds of Newgrange, a site we had visited in 2004. We knew that Gary would find them fascinating so we dropped in. A bit more developed 15 years later and we had to wait for an available spot in a tour. Consequently we had lunch at the café and joined the 2.15 group. The chamber and its Celtic symbols carved in the grand boulders was still memorable, especially under the grey Irish mist. The River Boyne was a mini torrent and being aware of the fire crisis in Oz we envied the gushing flow of water.

Finally arrived at The Shirley Arms Hotel, our abode for 2 nights. Greeted by brother Col at the foyer and immediately started to take in familiar faces standing in the large comfy bar.  Changed into lighter clothing in order to cope with the warm interior temperature and joined the merry throng. More familiar faces filtered in until we were nearly our complete contingent of 30-ish. Finger food was welcomed as one moved around the crowd. A fun start to the celebrations.

Today( Tues 31st) was a calm start over breakfast with a few of the youngies a little worse for wear. Tony had expressed an interest in the history of the town to Amy's father the night before and lo and behold Dick was quick to arrange a friend to take any interested persons on a walking tour at 11am. A suitably rugged-up group of 15 or so greeted him. One claim to fame is the Carrickmacross lace, brought to world-wide notice as the style of lace on Kate Middleton's wedding dress sleeves!
Not sure what is happening tonight, New Year's Eve, as tomorrow is the Big Day.

Hope that you all saw the New Year arrive in your own happy method of choice and a HUGE Happy Birthday to our far-away youngest, Lana. xxx

The Doha Bear

Too early for a dram, Mark.

Grafton St busy at 3pm Sunday

First aperatif in Ireland

Outside the 5000 yr old ritual chamber. The jury is now undecided as to whether they were ever intended to be burial sites. 

A repeat of a photo from 2004. 

One can see where the now- popular Celtic designs originated.

An appealing ( for me!) window display in Carrickmacross. 

Main St

That lace.

Main St.

Our lodgings.