Wow! What a day we have had! I have mentioned that Lana had planned this trip and had done some research. One of her finds was a tour conducted about 50 kms from here, involving Truffles.
We had arranged for a taxi to drive us to San Miniato, as the public transport to there was laborious. David the driver picked us up at 9.30 and we spent the next hour driving the slowest 50 kms I have ever experienced. There is not a freeway in the valley that we were in and once you get behind a truck that is it...there for the duration. No passing opportunities. However, drivers are patient and we were only a few minutes late for our 10.30 tour.
Massimo met us at his home. We then met his Father, Salvitore, who was going to be in charge of the truffle-hunting dog, Stella. In two cars we drove to the nearby San Miniato Hills, one of two places in Italy where the prized white truffle grows. Black truffle grows here all year, is cheaper and has a milder aroma and smell. White truffle season is from now until end of November. Much more expensive with a stronger aroma. Don't ask us to describe the smell. We can't. Suffice to say it is distinctive, perhaps a little sharp, perhaps a little peppery hmmm...not doing it justice.
Within 10 minutes of being in the forest, Stella is madly scratching at the soil. Voila! One white truffle. We wandered slowly around the forest and in just over an hour we had two white and two black truffles. It was exciting to watch the dog nose into the soil excitedly and then to watch Salvitore carefully dig with his special tool to see whether there was indeed a truffle...Stella was right each time.
We then drove to the home of the family's grandparents where Massimo's sister Leititia greeted us. She was going to prepare our lunch. We stayed in the kitchen as she prepared chick-pea soup with shaved black truffle garnish. Home-made pasta with white truffle and hazelnut sauce followed. As Leititia left to fetch her daughter from kinder, non- English speaking Salvitore prepared eggs in a small clay pot that was lightly cooked in the oven and garnished with white truffle. Eaten with bread slices or a wooden fork ( cause a metal fork would tarnish the flavour!) it was simply delicious. All of this was accompanied by white wines of the region. To finish, Leititia had made white chocolate and truffle , eaten with a walnut liquor made by her Father. We dined on their terrace, in a pleasant suburban setting.
Another sunny day, convenient taxi for transport and a family passionate about their traditional enterprise. The tradition is what they emphasise and work to protect. According to Massimo, truffle hunting is like fishing, you do it to relax and escape from every day realities. Wandering through the green forest is calming. Both he and his sister have other jobs. They are in collaboration with their Father to keep the highly prized truffle a respected product worldwide. All most very interesting.
Back to Colle, a quiet drink at the local bar, a small dinner and then our second last night in our apartment.
That pesty truck.
Salvitore checking the area before Massimo allows Stella to keep digging.
A very nice sized black truffle.
Salvitore finishing off the eggs with the white truffle. Others are on the plate.





Well - what do I say ?!! "superlative-superlative-superlative".
ReplyDeleteWell that was certainly a "one off" experience!
ReplyDeleteTruffle hunting!!! I've read about and you've actually done it. Now I really am green!
ReplyDeleteThe good sounds wonderful makes my rice crackers for lunch very plain!
ReplyDelete