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In the town of Sarajevo. After a restfull evening we were greeted by our young guide Elsa who would be with us for 3 to 4 hours. It is unfortunate, but tourism surrounding the war is a major economic driver in this tiny country. Elsa's grandparents and parents were swamped by the siege that lasted over 3 years. She was born the year after it ended in 1995. The blatant nationalism of the attacking Serbs and the fierce determination of the mixed race citizens of Sarajevo led to a sad and destructive impasse. A senseless mess. Coupled with the massacres at a town I will never spell correctly...Scevraniza..( Dutch peace keepers welcomed Muslim refugees who were eventually massacred by the Serbs) ...the Balkans war pitched peaceful neighbours against one another. After spending time with Elsa, Tony and I then visited a film museum depicting original footage of the war years. I was seriously over being sad by the time we left that building. This is in contrast to Elsa's request that we not be sad in Sarajevo, as they are a forgiving people and much wry humour was made during the siege. Apparently the theory is that the Serbs wanted take the city but could not cope with the 400 000 population. If they could encourage half to leave ( no water, gas, electricity, bombardment) ) they would then move in. But the citizens banded together and did not leave.

A major saviour was the 800 metre tunnel that they dug to,access an area beyond the attacking forces. This lifeline provided enough materials and food sources to keep them sustained. We visited remnants of that tunnel. After the massacres at Scevraniza, the Bosnian President very reluctantly agreed to sign a bad peace deal. So today, this tiny country of 4 million, has 3 presidents ( for each ethnic group) 2 states and 14 local governments. Nothing is achieved and the under 25 unemployment is 61%. The young are leaving. When will be the next revolution? So sad.

Having said all of that,there is life in this city. The nightlife is vibrant and the streets are full of families and tourists. We will leave here with a much clearer understanding of The Balkans war, but again shaking our head at man's inhumanity to man.

 

The perfect place for a siege.

Our excellent guide Elsa playing the fool as we leave the non-descript home that was the entrance to the tunnel

Christian and Muslims have worked hard to retain Sarajevo as a tolerant city.

 

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